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Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Lapped Front Infant Hoodie: Tutorial and Pattern

Last year during Top-toberfest I had a newborn baby.  I made him the sweetest little sweatshirt, made up a pattern, and then it never found it's way into the series.  So, one year later, I'm finally sharing it with you.  Unfortunately a few of the tutorial photos were deleted from my computer, so I'll do the best to fill in the gaps.

I loved this sweatshirt for a newborn.  The lapped front, allows you to pull the sweatshirt off an on with ease.  No zippers, no buttons, no snaps.  Easy on, easy off, and a relatively happy baby (what baby really loves having their clothes changed).

This sweatshirt pattern is gender neutral-hooray.  I made a really basic sweatshirt with the materials that I had on hand, but you could really dress it up with pockets, buttons, trims, etc.

What you'll need:
Printable Infant Hoodie pattern 0-3 months
1 yard of sweatshirt fleece (estimate...I used a remnant piece).
Ribbed Knit for arm bands, and waist band
Sewing supplies

*Lining pieces can be cut out of contrast knit fabric if desired
Cut a three inch strip of ribbed knit for arm bands, and a 4 inch strip for the waistband

Cut out pattern pieces according to pattern instructions.

Place hood pieces, and hood lining pieces right sides together.  Pin along the outside curve.  Sew together.  Notch the curve to ease fabric for turning.

Press seams open.

Place hood and lining pieces right sides together, match up seams, and pin along the inside curve.  

Stitch, and clip curve.

Turn hood pieces right sides out.  Press.  Topstitch along the new seam.  Stay stitch along the bottom raw edges of the hood to secure pieces for attachment.

Stitch 1/8" away from either side of the center hood seam to secure hood and lining. Contrast stitching anyone?

Take your front sweatshirt pieces, and your back sweatshirt piece, and sew together at shoulder seams.

Attach the hood to the sweatshirt. Match up the center hood seam with the center of the sweatshirt back. Right sides of fabric should face each other.  

Pin along the remaining tails of the hood, as you near the ends of the tails, angle the tails down so that the topstitched edge curves into the seam. Stitch in place.

Better picture?  Press seam down. The hood tails will not meet up with the side seams.

Topstitch hood seam down.

Next, cross the front pieces over one another. Pin along side edges and bottom edge.  The back sweatshirt piece should not be pinned at this point.

 Secure layers by stitching 1/8 inch away from raw edges.

Place right sides of sweatshirt front and back together.  Match up side seams.  Sew side seams.

Next for the sleeves.  You can attach the ribbed knit however you'd like.  sewing cuffs in the round on infant clothing isn't my favorite, so I used a cheater method.

First off, you need to measure the width of the bottom of the sleeve (because I've misplaced my notes).  You will cut your strip of ribbed knit into two  pieces that are 3/4 as long as the width of your sleeves. Once your strips are cut, press the ribbed knit in half. Find the center point of the sleeves and the ribbing.  Pin in place, right sides together, matching up raw edges. Stretch the ribbed knit to the length of the sleeves.  Pin and stitch.

 Press seam up, top stitch 1/8" away from seam to secure seam.

Now we enter the NO PICTURE ZONE. 
borrowed from separate tutorial

You are going to finish your sleeves, and set them in.  If you've sewn shirts before, it's just the same as we usually do it.  Fold the sleeve in half, sew along the length of the sleeve (bottom left).  Turn the body of the sweatshirt inside out.  Insert the sleeve (right side out), into the body of the sweatshirt, cuff first. Match up the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam (bottom right).  Pin.  Match up the sleeve seam with the side sweatshirt seam.  Pin. Right sides of the sleeve and sweatshirt should be facing each other.  Starting at the side seam, sew around the sleeve, stretching fabric as needed, to evenly distribute fabric.  Repeat on remaining sleeve.  

Attach the waistband to the sweatshirt.  

Measure the circumference of the bottom of the sweatshirt.  Cut your ribbed knit down to 3/4 the length of the circumference, plus 3/4" for seam allowance.  Match up short ends of ribbing, stitch 3/8 inch away from raw edges.  Press seam open.  Fold the ribbing in half, reducing the width of the waistband by half. You should now have a loop of ribbing, with raw edges matched up.  Attach the waistband to the bottom of the sweatshirt by matching right sides, and raw edges.  Find quarter points on both waistband and ribbing.  Match up quarter points.  Stitch in place, stretching ribbing to equal the length of the sweatshirt material.  Press seam up.  Topstitch waistband seam.

 Enjoy.  Perfect for Fall, Winter, and Spring babies. your best to try to mach up those cuffs when sewing the sleeves...


Lynette @ My Craft Discovery said...

That is darling. How fun! I like the lapped front a lot.

Simple Simon & Co said...

Love the colors together...and the unisex pattern. Darling!

Charity said...

How cute! I love the lapped front, very clever. =)

Terra said...

I love it! I may have to try to make one in a bigger size for my son...

Emily said...

I love it!!! Do you suppose a grown up could pull this off? ;)

Laura said...

This is so cute and practical for a newborn. Love it!

Elisabetta said...

this pattern is adorable!
I wonder if it is possible to make it bigger for grown up kids, any suggestion?

Heather Feather said...

I love this! It's so easy to get on and off! I'm probably try making a bigger one for my son!

Kelly.R said...

Dang! I thought this said Toddler not Infant. le sigh. I also would like it in my size...

Tinas Quilt said...

Love this hoodie.
Is the seam allowance included?

Love from Sweden

Craftysquirrel said...

Wow great pattern thanks, was looking for the perfect gift to make and this is it.

Kayleigh Garner said...

This is a great tutorial, one thing I would suggest you try:
Instead of doing sleeves the normal way, leave the side seams on the body and sleeves open, match the curve of the sleeve to the armhole and sew that, then sew the side of the body and the sleeve in one go. No more fiddling in a tiny space!

Dora K said...

this is great! ive got some lovely soft fabric and want to make some jumper/coat for our coming baby. do you by any chance have a pattern for a zippered version?

Jessica said...

Thank you for this great tutorial! Here is a link to the sweatshirt that I made for my niece!

abunda said...

¡¡Love it!! well covered head and neck without need of zippering or buttoning!! Thanks.

Anonymous said...

This was such a great tutorial, easy to follow even for a beginner!!! Now im looking for the same pattern in larger sizes it is so great :-) said...

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Beth Cavanaugh said...

I love this sweatshirt! I just had to figure out how to adapt it for my three-year-old--here's what I came up with!

Nähzirkus said...

Thank you very much :0)

Melody said...

Cut this out tonight, it looks very nice, unique too. I don't really see anything like this in the store. The inside of the hood and the pants I'm going to make will be the same fabric, can't wait!

Carlijn said...

Thanks for the pattern. I made two already. One for my little girl and one for the son of a friend. (It's in Dutch but you can see the result)

Anonymous said...

Like it so much..
Is the seam allowance included?

Anonymous said...

Such a wonderfull hoody! Thank you so much for the tutorial!

Michael Jordan said...

The style of this item is really Awesome and unique

Schwesterherz said...

Thank you so much for this pattern. I am just sewing it right now. I hope I´ll do everyrhing right ;)

Dolores said...

I am curious, what seam allowance did you use? Half inch?